WillaKenzie Estate

Located in the Chehalem Mountains of Willamette Valley’s northern region, WillaKenzie Estate is one of a handful of wineries that has it all. What is it? It’s one part bucolic setting — the rolling hills, acres of north-south running vineyards, and the proverbial hawk circling in the blue sky; it’s one part wonderful tasting room, complete with knowledgeable staff members who make you feel at home and plenty of space to roam. You can see first-hand the equipment and appreciate the term “gravity flow.” Then add to the mix that indefinable Oregon sensibility involving an appreciation for the land and the people who work it; a mission of sustainability, an effort to safe salmon and a good working environment (complete with health benefits for the vineyard crew) and it all adds up to WillaKenzie Estate.

Spurred by an ad in Wine Spectator in the early ’90s, Bernard Lacroute purchased a 420-acre cattle ranch in Yamhill. It was a chance to return to his French roots à la U.S.A. He and his wife, Ronni Lacroute, proceeded to plant primarily pinot noir and eventually other Burgundian and Alsatian grapes on more than 100 acres of the property. They opted to preserve much of the land as it was, leaving blackberry patches, Douglas fir, and other native plants. The result is an ecosystem in keeping with the couple’s biodynamic philosophy and sustainable approach to growing grapes. Even the natural watersheds on the property are preserved and classified as salmon-safe.

In the tasting room, you won’t hear the sound of corks popping from the bottles. This is a corkscrew-free zone. The WillaKenzie Estate management team, including winemaker Thibaud Mandet, elected to shun the bottle corks in favor of twist-offs. Their reason was simple — less cork taint, or trichloranisole (TCA), a chemical that occasionally forms on natural cork. While sampling their marvelous pinot noirs, pinot gris, and other varietals, you can’t help but be enthralled by the large mural above the tasting bar. It’s easy to immerse yourself in this scene and imagine pouring the wine, tearing off a hunk of fresh bread to go with the Brie, and feeling the sun on your face. Then you’re suddenly awakened from your fantasy with a tap on the shoulder. Your friends are handing you their Canon with that “Can you take our picture?” look. You’re happy to oblige.