The Pines 1852

“He’s called the grape guru of the Gorge,” noted The Pines tasting-room pourer. She was referring to Lonnie Wright, owner of The Pines. I was sniffing my sample of their white blend called Satin (a 50/50 blend of pinot gris and gewürztraminer), which the pourer referred to as “summer in a bottle.” I entertained the notion of Lonnie as the modern-day viticultural version of Johnny Appleseed. Perhaps he is. As owner of Columbia Country Vineyards, Lonnie is responsible for about 200 acres of grapes throughout the region. That’s in addition to his vineyard, which features old zinfandel vines originally planted in — you guessed it — 1852.

Indeed, many of the labels that define the Oregon wine industry rely on grapes from vineyards created by Lonnie. Next time you are in a bottle shop, check out the labels of Sineann, Pheasant Valley, Cathedral Ridge, Mystic, Eola Hills and Owen Roe wines, to name a few. Chances are the grapes were sourced from the Columbia Gorge viticultural area.

The owner/winemaker of Sineann, Peter Rosback, continues as the winemaker for The Pines 1852. Peter and Lonnie’s grape-growing/winemaking relationship began years ago in the 1980s and continues today with Lonnie’s own label. At The Pines’ Hood River tasting room, visitors have a chance to sample a lineup of regionally grown varietals, including pinot gris, viognier, pinot noir, merlot, syrah, a port-style zinfandel called Sweet Sierra, and of course old-vine zinfandel. I emphasize “chance,” because many of their wines sell out during the year. So please remember, my wine-trekking friend, to call ahead if you have a hankering for Sweet Sierra or one of Lonnie’s ever-popular zins.

Have you noticed how wine pairs wonderfully with art? At The Pines 1852, visitors have the pleasure of checking out contemporary photographs with a decidedly viticultural theme. An art gallery shares space with the tasting room. The one drawback is that you can’t take your wine glass with you to the gallery area — it’s just not allowed. Still, take the time to visit the art gallery, and as you look at the art, say a silent thank-you to that Italian settler who planted zinfandel vines in the Gorge. Grazie, dear immigrant!