Territorial Vineyards and Wine Co.

The tasting room of Territorial Vineyards and Wine Co. is located in the heart of Eugene’s funky Whiteaker neighborhood. During my visit, I chanced upon a summer block party, with streets closed to traffic, and plenty of tie-dye-garbed youth and portable potties. As I walked past the throngs of earth-friendly celebrants, I wondered what was in store for my visit. From a distance, I spied the Third Avenue tasting room, with its lacquered black paint job and pronounced block-letter “TERRITORIAL” across the top. It has that distinctive neighborhood bar feeling.

I entered a wine-tasting-room version of the hit TV show Cheers. The place rocked with folks having a decidedly good time. Instead of Ted Danson pouring, there were three women working behind the bar, exchanging friendly banter with patrons and fulfilling requests for pinot noir, pinot gris, riesling, chardonnay, and rosé. Folks welcomed me, and one of the smiling pourers asked if she could be of assistance.

Once I explained my mission, she made sure I had plenty of pinot to swirl and led me to the side door that opened to the 12,000-square-foot production space, which features an indoor crush pad and barrel room. I had the urge to shout to see if I could create an echo, but I figured that would have been a little weird. There was plenty of space for negotiating forklifts, hosting a big party, or tossing a Frisbee.

Founded by two wine-growing families, Alan and April Mitchell and Jeff and Victoria Wilson-Charles, Territorial Vineyards and Wine Co. is focused on estate wines. Located in the surrounding hills near Eugene, its vineyards bear the very cool names Equinox, Bellpine, and Toad Hall vineyards. All of its vineyards are certified LIVE (Low Input Viticulture & Enology) and Salmon Safe. Once the wines are barrel-aged in French oak, it’s the task of winemaker John Jarboe to blend the vineyard-designated batches. An example is Territorial’s Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, a blend of Pommard, Wädenswil, Jackson, and Dijon clones from the three Territorial vineyards. It’s a symphony of sorts, with John conducting the orchestra.

Walking back to my car, past a jamming rock ’n’ roll band and people dancing in the street, I realized that Territorial Vineyards and Wine Co. is true to the Eugene spirit. Their wines are pure expressions of the soil whence they came. It’s authentically groovy.