Springhouse Cellar Winery

He looked up from his laptop, and we gave each other that “I know you from somewhere” look. It was James Matthisen. “What the hell are you doing here?” I asked.

“Well,” replied James, “this is my winery.” It had been at least 15 years since our last get-together in Seattle. We both have our roots in the healthcare field: James, an actuary, and me, a sales and marketing representative for different insurers. After a minute, James smiled and recalled that we had met several times in Anchorage, where he was working for Alyeska Pipeline in its benefits department. Who knew that these two turbo-charged, briefcase-carrying dudes would meet years later in a Hood River winery?

While James and his wife, Lisa, continue to work as actuaries, he increasingly devotes time, energy and his Visa card to growing Springhouse Cellar. His new tasting winery at the back end of the Mount Hood Railroad lot is testimony to his passion. It has plenty of light, room to spread out, and a wine bar that invites tourists and locals alike to imbibe. (WineTrail Tip: Ask James if you can check out the “ruins” on the side of the building and imagine this as a wedding or reception site.)

As I sampled his Perpetual Merlotion (which recently received a silver medal at the Northwest Wine Summit), James noted that the winery has outgrown its production area and storage at his 1875 homesteaded property east of the town of Hood River in Mosier. A “springhouse” on the property served as the barrel room and is also the inspiration for his wine labels. But to take Springhouse Cellar to the next level, he’s had to think bigger. Hence, the relocation of his winemaking and barrel storage to a Hood River facility.

While tasting his cabernet franc, I was compelled to read the back label, which states, “Smooth as frog’s fur, this bright, fruity, medium-bodied cabernet franc will make your toes curl.” Yes, dear wine trekker, even actuaries have a sense of humor. Although James makes wines that you can cellar for years, I found this cabernet franc ready to be opened and enjoyed that day.

When I asked about his one-man operation, James corrected me, saying that he gets help from his family and friends. It even appears that his two kids are winemakers in training. Five-year-old Erica can smell the difference between syrah and merlot during punch-down, and 3-year-old Dylan can say “gewürztraminer.”