Sleight of Hand Cellars

Any new realizations would have to wait
’Til he had more time
More time
A time to dream
To himself
He waves goodbye
To himself
I’ll see you on the other side
Another man moved by sleight of hand

from “Sleight of Hand,” Pearl Jam

To say that co-owner and winemaker Trey Busch is a fan of Pearl Jam is an understatement. Pearl Jam holds cult status in Trey’s mind and is the inspiration for Sleight of Hand’s branding. With names and amazing label graphics for such wines as “The Magician” gewürztraminer, “Spellbinder” red blend, and “Levitation” syrah, you half expect the tasting room staff to pull a rabbit out of a hat. But there are no tricks up their sleeves. The real magic visitors experience are the premium small-lot wines.

It was Trey’s chance encounter with Jerry and Sandy Solomon at a Sun Valley auction in 2002 that eventually led to the creation of Sleight of Hand Cellars. As the winemaker for Basel Cellars Estate Winery, Trey had established himself as one of Washington’s up-and-coming young winemakers. Given his résumé, it was only natural for Trey to consider launching his own winery, with a focus on showcasing Washington Vitis vinifera fruit. He approached Jerry and Susan with the idea of a joint venture à la Walla Walla and the rest is Washington winemaking history.

Sleight of Hand’s elongated, red brick tasting room on Second Avenue has only one problem. It’s next door to gourmet food shop Salumiere Cesario, and during my visit someone must have ordered up a grilled panino; my nose caught the scents of salami and melted cheese as they wafted into the Sleight of Hand Cellar’s tasting room, causing me to salivate like Pavlov’s dog. Note to myself: Don’t come hungry to Sleight of Hand Cellars in the future. Resisting a hot sandwich and reaching for a pretzel instead, I discovered that the “Spellbinder” pairs wonderfully with the aromas of meats, garlic, and herbs that I’m sure that even Eddie Vedder’s great-grandmother Pearl would love.