Holesinsky Winery

To paraphrase an old saying by Señor Cervantes, “The proof of the wine is in the drinking.” And in the case of Buhl, Idaho’s Holesinsky Winery, its wines have proven themselves beyond a shadow of a doubt. Owner/winemaker James Holesinsky’s creations have continued to rack up awards, including a double gold for his 2008 Rosé at the 2009 Idaho Wine Festival & Competition.

If the competition had been handing out “green” ribbons, he would have won one of those as well. Holesinsky Winery represents a growing number of Idaho wineries going organic. James’ 18-acre vineyard in the Snake River appellation is USDA Certified Organic — no small task given the certification’s rigorous requirements. Chemical pesticides, herbicides, and insecticides are verboten for at least three years prior to certification. As James states on his Facebook page, “We’re organic from soil to bladder.” Going beyond growing organic grapes, Holesinsky Winery is striving to achieve “biodynamic” status in the future. Biodynamic viticulture treats the vineyard and surrounding space as a harmonic ecosystem. This may sound rather woo-woo, but this particular approach, a growing movement worldwide, produces highly acclaimed wines.

Using organically grown grapes is fundamental to making Holesinsky wines, but that’s just the start. James is a chemist and a graduate of University of California, Davis’ Viticulture and Enology program. Armed with this background and the influence of select Washington winemakers (e.g., Rick Small at Woodward Canyon, Charles Smith at K Vintners, and Mike Moore at Blackwood Canyon) 30-year-old James has developed his own winemaking style. He adheres to Old World French sur lie method to age his wine (i.e., barrel aging wine on its lees, or spent yeast), shunning fining (clarification), and filtering his wines to preserve the wine’s full flavors.

I had my second pour of Holesinsky Winery’s refreshingly spritzy rosé when I eyed a syrah with the curious name “Syrah?” on the label. My interest was diverted, however, when James’ parents Barbara and Frank arrived at the tasting room, sporting summer tans and offering warm handshakes. It was clear that the Holesinskys are a close-knit family.

As I drove away, mulling over my visit, it occurred to me that Holesinsky Winery’s dedication to sustainability goes beyond using recycled paper for their wine labels; it extends to preserving an Idaho lifestyle, having respect for the land and creating award-winning wines for today and for the future.