Frenchman's Gulch Winery

“Altitude fermentation,” Stephen “Mac” McCarthy responded to my query about how he gets his wines to taste so bloody good. Mac was making the case that Ketchum’s elevation of 5,750 feet contributes to prolonged fermentation process. The result is velvety smooth reds with complex layers and lasting finishes. Mac went on to explain that the high altitude requires an extra-long period of fermentation before pressing and barrel aging. This, he feels, translates into premium wines and reinforces his decision, made many years ago, to move from Chicago to this high-altitude Idaho ski resort.

I was swirling and sniffing Frenchman’s Gulch Winery’s cabernet sauvignon when Mac’s dog, Bo, made a guest appearance. Sporting a “bohawk” summer ’do, Bo circled and planted himself at my feet. I asked Mac about his source of grapes; after all, Sun Valley is a long way from vineyards. He explained that he acquires his grapes from some of the finest vineyards in Eastern Washington’s Columbia Valley. His relationship with Washington grape growers spans many “leaf years.” During harvest, Mac and his team make 10 roundtrip runs to Washington to fetch his grapes.

From these grapes, Mac handcrafts about 1,300 cases of premium wines a year, including chardonnay, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, and a Bordeaux blend named Ketchum Cuvée. These are small-lot wines involving family and friends crushing and pressing the grapes. Feet get purple, smiles abound, and the harvest is celebrated with lots of wine. Of course it doesn’t hurt that the setting itself is first class: The stone-faced winery and tasting room buildings have a distinct Euro feel, and the surrounding mountains add to the sense of place. Given this setting, I suspect Mac has to turn away volunteers.

While tasting his luscious syrah, I asked Mac where he hopes to take Frenchman’s Gulch Winery. He responded that he just wants to make good wine and sell it at an affordable price. He’d like to keep production to about 1,300 cases annually, and with that production, show the world that exquisite wines can be made in high-altitude ski country. At this point in our conversation, I began to catch a buzz and thought I’d better switch from swallowing to spitting the wine. Then it dawned on me that my dizziness was brought on by the mile-high altitude, not overindulgence. Heck, what’s a little light-headedness — I kept swigging.